Fresh Tart

I'd declare tomorrow night Soup Night, what with another *%^&ing snowstorm coming and all, but instead my mom and I are off to see Jersey Boys. I couldn't help but think as I watched last week, my mom must see this. So she is. Or will be... Can't wait!

But for any of you who will be knocking 'round your kitchen, trying not to look out the window, here are a couple of the batten-down/snuggle-up soups I'll wish I were eating. Man, nothing chases away a bad mood like a pot of soup - comforting (and simple) to make, plus nutritious and tasty. (It takes only a hint of smoky bacon or a splash of rich cream to make a so-so soup pretty damn fabulous.)

Top of the list - I have been loving the Sunday Suppers at Lucques (by Suzanne Goin, terrific book) watercress soup recipe I posted a couple of months ago - salty, buttery croutons afloat in silky, spicy deliciousness. I crave it. And I've found the basic recipe to be quite adaptable - we've had arugula and asparagus versions so far, both lovely.

Chicken soup with bacon, asparagus, and truffle oil is also delicious - fragrant, flavorful, quick to pull together. And one of our all-time favorites, which requires a few extra steps but is quite worth it, fish soup with grilled bread and rouille, oooh, pretty insanely good. Grilling the bread adds a hint of smokiness, while the rouille rounds it all out with a spicy-garlicky kick. Ka. Pow. Yeah.

Of course, New England clam chowder is always warm and filling on a cold spring's night. Especially this version, chock full o' baconand creamy but not thick. With warm crusty bread, or even popovers (rarrr...), it could be almost pleasant to ride out (frozen) April showers. Almost.

And oh, here's a must-read for those of you who already embrace (or at least aspire to) the art of eating (very) well without weighing 400 pounds. Moderation, anyone? As Jason Perlow, a founder of the foodiest of forums - eGullet - notes in the article, “I think you can still keep the food very interesting, but do it in moderation. That’s what the food community of the future is going to have to be.” Or, as the livin' large Food Network star and New York chef Mario Batali said, “You can’t eat a large portion of a pig and lose weight.” Damn, forget a quest for measured pleasure, THAT should be the tag line for this blog!

Ah, back to reality. (Small sigh, wry smile...) And back to cooking for the fam! Tonight, I'm making a typical make-your-own Wild Wednesday dish, in this case chicken noodle soup. The kids take theirs light on the chicken (and veggies), heavy on the noodle. We adults reverse the ratio. Either way, a good chicken stock makes the dish. I tried a new version (I made it yesterday, when I had time, vs. today, when I don't), the Miss Edna Louis recipe from The Gift of Southern Cooking. Result? Incredible, very rich and chicken-y, a perfect chicken soup base. Easy too (all you need is a good, heavy knife for hacking apart the chicken; recipe posted in comments, below).

For the veggies, I just saute a diced mixture of whatever sounds good, in a little butter. Tonight, for instance, I'm thinking mushrooms, garlic, leeks, okra, carrots, fennel. Other tasty options could include asparagus, celery, tomatoes, zucchini...you get the picture. For chicken, I pull apart a deli rotisserie chicken (the chicken from making stock is totally spent and flavorless). Canned (rinsed) navy or canellini beans can be a nice addition. Grated gruyere cheese is lovely too. For noodles, just plain ol' egg noodles fit the bill. To assemble, I line it all up buffet style and everyone builds their own bowl. Few grinds of black pepper, crusty bread, perhaps a salad... Everyone's happy, everyone's full, good stuff.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Nothin' like a little love on VD, we all need some love, right? If you're cooking up love for your honey, which I most often do (although not tonight; more on that, below), it's hard to beat the, uh, aphrodisiac perfume of truffles, even in something as simple as Chicken Soup with Bacon, Asparagus & Truffle Oil (add warm, crusty bread for a fully sensual experience, crunch). Or, it never hurts to bring on a little heat, baby, perhaps in the form of Pasta with Tuna Sauce. And for dessert, chocolate but of course, even something as basic as Killer Chocolate Sauce served warm and melty over really good ice cream. Lick the bowl. Rarrr!

My love already arrived, and not in the form of chocolate (perhaps later), jewelry (not later, I'm quite sure, oh well), a card (certainly later) or flowers (hopefully later?), but in...an email from Baseball Mom Beth.

Huh?

Well, Beth just happened to be listening to Cities 97 this morning, and just happened to catch a segment with "Chef Philip," and Chef Philip just happens to be none other than Philip Dorwart of Create Catering, where we just happened to have our amazing dinner last Friday night... So? Well, after I wrote about our dinner, Stu the Wine Genius sent Philip the link to my blog (thanks man!), and Philip scoped it out (eek! nice!), and in turn gave Ye Old Moderate Epicurean some sweet raves this morning as he chatted about food and dining blogs - and naked sushi! - with hosts Lee Valsvik and and BT. You can listen here, if you're so inclined (the "2/14 Chef Philip" segment).

So gosh, thanks to My Super Surprise Valentines - Beth, Stu, and Philip!

How do I top that VD thrill? Well, I probably don't (sorry John!), although I'm gonna give it the old college try when we whisk off for love=food in the bar at Cafe Lurcat. It's abso-friggin-lutely (to paraphrase Mr. Big from Sex and the City) a pommes frites and vino night for me, my friends. Chocolate to finish (just like you)! Hopefully completely immoderate. (Back with moderation over the weekend, don't worry...) Oh. Yeah.