Fresh Tart

I saw a recipe for this bread on the terrific blog Against All Grain. As I've noted before, I find eating even gluten-free grains inflammatory (and with a bigger carbohydrate punch than I can get away with, unless I want to gain weight and feel exhausted...). You could call this way of eating Paleo, but I do fear that people have come to believe that a Paleo style of eating means gnawing on huge amounts of bacon, which isn't true at all. Paleo really just refers to eating the whole, unprocessed foods that humans evolved healthfully to eat for most of our existence - greens, roots, nuts, fruits, eggs, and free-range animals. Grains, sugar, and dairy are avoided (some people tolerate dairy better than others, although it's worth noting that when one gives it up for a month and then reintroduces it, it's common to notice low energy and congestion and perhaps even stomach cramps). I do eat legumes in small quantities (per my quinoa cake recipe below). Healthy, naturally occurring fats - olive oil, coconut oil, avocados, grassfed animal fat, nuts/nut oils (not vegetable oils/margarines or transfats) - are not limited but in fact make up the primary source of calories. (Even though I try not to eat loads of cheese, I do still eat butter and ghee/clarified butter).

I find it an incredibly delicious and satisfying way to eat and it has certainly done wonders for my health. Eating carbohydrates in the form of vegetables, nuts, and small amounts of fruit (particularly fresh berries) instead of processed grains and sugars is the path to appetite control, glowing skin, and steady energy.

I'll take all of those, straight up, thank you.

That's a long introduction for how I came to make this bread! So here it is: I follow Against All Grain on Facebook so when Danielle (the blog's lovely author, with a compelling story of how she manages ulceritive colitis with a grain-free diet) posted photos of a grain-free bread that looked like BREAD I had to give it a go. The bread is primarily raw cashew butter, eggs, and a bit of coconut flour. I'm tempted to call this a cake - a pound cake in particular - more than a bread, but I must say that it makes AMAZING French toast, the way that challah or brioche does. I could easily imagine adding citrus zest to the mix or icing a warm loaf with the cinnamon butter glaze from Roost blog's (another terrific grain-free site) pumpkin donut recipe. Needless to say, I think this is a clever recipe that can be adapted any number of sweet or savory ways. That makes it a winner in my book! (Find Danielle's recipe here.)

I made the French toast pictured with eggs and hemp seed milk and topped it with crushed blackberries (quite terrific right now) sweetened with a bit of maple syrup, courtesy of my friend Kathy Yerich's maple trees. My belly is pleasantly full of grain-free French toast, it's going to be more than 70 degrees today, and I'm off to judge a butchering competition at Whole Foods Lake Calhoun.

Yes.

Happy spring-y weekend! xoxo

Here's a thing: my husband and I are divorcing. It's exactly as sad and stressful as one might imagine, so I've been taking extra steps to take really good care of myself. I already know that eating corn and rice makes be feel pretty lousy - not as lousy as eating gluten - but lethargic and puffy nonetheless, so I've pretty much eliminated them from my diet. I've also made a point of including vegetables in all of my meals, either by juicing, or making smoothies, or eating big salads. Eating light, colorful, crunchy food makes me feel good, fits the season, and makes cooking more fun and interesting.

Although I generally steer away from grains and high carbohydrate food, I do occasionally indulge in quinoa. I just love the nutty taste, and that it makes a terrific breakfast "cereal" as well as a base for a flavor-packed salad. I've been eating a lot of hemp seeds lately because they taste a lot like quinoa, but are even higher in protein and fiber with very few carbohydrates. Now when I make quinoa, I make a 50-50 combination of quinoa and hemp seeds (1/2 cup red quinoa, 1/2 cup hemp seeds, 1 cup water, 1/2 tsp. salt; bring to a boil, cover, simmer for 15 minutes or until quinoa is tender and water is absorbed; eat warm or cover and chill to use in salads or the recipe below).

I also absolutely adore beans and legumes. ADORE. I enjoy them in small servings - they're so lovely in soups or stir-fries or as a binder for savory cakes. The beauty of making crispy cakes (croquettes, really) with quinoa and beans is that you can season them so many different ways. If I'm in the mood for Indian food, I'll use lentils and garam masala and chiles and top them with raita. If I'm craving Mexican food I'll season them with cumin and chiles and top them with chicken, salsa, and cilantro. I'm sure you get the idea...

...so I'll just give you the basic ratios and let you riff on your favorite flavors. You can cook the beans yourself, or open a can of organic refried or whole beans (easily mashed), and in minutes be frying up a crispy cake. Top with a lemon-y salad, or a huge dollop of guacamole (huge!), or a gorgeous pile o' buttery sauteed mushrooms, or a grass-fed burger (like I did just a few minutes ago). Or:

Quinoa Cakes with Arugula & Poached Eggs (Gluten-free)
Serves 2

You can easily multiply this recipe and keep quinoa-bean mixture in the fridge, ready to fry into cakes for any meal of the day.

1 c. cooked quinoa (or quinoa + hemp seeds, see above)
1/2 c. cooked, mashed beans (pinto, navy, black, lentils, etc.)
sea salt
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. chile powder
1 clove garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. tempeh, chopped (optional, adds protein and firmness)
2 Tbsp. crumbled feta cheese (optional)
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped pepitas or other nuts (optional)
garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour as needed
olive oil
handful arugula leaves, chopped
squeeze of fresh lemon
2 large, organic eggs
freshly ground black pepper
optional: 4 ramps, halved lengthwise

Fill a medium saucepan 2 inches deep with water. Add enough salt to the water for it to be pleasantly salty. Set over medium-high heat.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the quinoa, beans, 1/2 tsp. salt, cumin, chile powder, garlic, tempeh (if using), feta (if using), and nuts (if using). Add garbanzo bean flour, a few teaspoons at a time, until mixture is firm. Form into two patties and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. When oil is hot, add the quinoa cakes. Fry until nicely browned and crispy (take a peek before flipping) and then carefully flip. Fry until crispy on the second side and transfer to plates. (If using ramps, add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and fry the ramps over medium heat until crispy on both sides. Divide between the two plates.)

When the water boils, turn heat down so that the water is barely simmering—small bubbles should barely break the surface. Crack one egg into a small dish or mug and slide it into the water. Quickly do the same with the second egg. Set the timer for 3 and 1/2 minutes. The eggs whites will look shredded, but that's OK. Make sure the water maintains no more or no less than barely breaking bubbles.

While the eggs cook, toss the arugula with a squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Arrange the arugula atop the quinoa cakes.

When the timer goes off, use a slotted spoon to scoop one egg out of the water. Tilt the spoon so the liquid drains completely off, then place the egg on top of the arugula. Repeat with the second egg. Top eggs with a sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of black pepper each. Serve immediately.

I couldn't eat much of anything this terrible, sad weekend, but as my desire to cook has slowly returned, I'm turning to comfort foods. I made pan-seared steaks with a dried-and-fresh-mushroom pan sauce and it was just really nice to serve John and Nathan one of their favorite meals.

I made a good amount of the mushroom sauce with savory French toast in the back of my mind. If you only enjoy French toast for breakfast, you're missing out on a terrific and fast lunch or dinner. I used gluten-free bread for the pic (and my stomach), but if I could eat gluten I'd use challah. Any type of bread works nicely, though, really what you have on hand. Because that's the point - savory French toast is a filling, comforting base for leftovers of almost any type, on the table quickly.

If you're not a mushroom fan, try spinach sauteed with garlic, perhaps with a spot of sausage in the mix as well, perhaps with a pinch of red pepper flakes. Or thin slices of ham and a spoonful of braised beans. Or roasted squash and fried sage leaves. Or in the summer, slices of ripe tomato and crispy bacon. (Best. Thing. Ever.) French toast is rich, so a touch of acid and a shower of black pepper strike a delicious balance.

In case you ARE a mushroom fan, the sauce below is a terrific finish for any pan-seared meat that leaves lovely, crusty drippings behind: chicken, steaks, lamb, venison, veal, pork. Just stir the completed sauce into the hot pan juices, scraping the pan while simmering for a couple of minutes. That's it. However, the sauce is also rich and flavorful on its own, thanks to the beauty of dried wild mushrooms. And sherry. And butter.

Yes.

Savory French Toast with Mushrooms
Serves 2

Mushrooms
1/3 c. dry sherry
2/3 c. water
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
6 oz. fresh mushrooms, quartered
4 Tbsp. butter
salt
1 clove garlic, minced
squeeze of fresh lemon juice
few gratings of fresh nutmeg (optional)
1 Tbsp. minced fresh herbs (thyme or tarragon or whichever you like best; optional)
1 Tbsp. heavy cream or sour cream (optional)
freshly ground black pepper

French toast
2 eggs
2/3 c. milk or half-and-half
pinch of salt
4 slices bread (challah, country bread, sandwich bread, gluten-free, any type works)
2 Tbsp. high heat oil (sunflower or safflower)
2 Tbsp. butter

For the mushrooms:
Combine sherry and water in a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat until hot (steaming). Add dried porcini mushrooms to the pan and remove from heat. Let sit for 30 minutes, stirring the mushrooms a couple of times, until mushrooms are soft. Using your hands, scoop mushrooms from the liquid and squeeze excess liquid back into the pan, reserving the liquid. Coarsely chop mushrooms and set aside.

Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add fresh mushrooms to the pan, along with a generous pinch of salt. Stir around so the mushrooms are coated with butter, then let them be for a few minutes until they start to brown. Give them another stir, add the porcini mushrooms and garlic, and saute for another 5-7 minutes until the whole pan is browned and glaze-y.

Pour the porcini soaking liquid into the skillet of mushrooms, leaving the sediment that will have settled to the bottom of the saucepan behind. Simmer for 3-4 minutes to thicken the sauce a bit. Stir in the squeeze of fresh lemon juice (to taste). Stir in optional nutmeg and/or fresh herbs and/or cream or sour cream and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

For the French toast:
In a pie plate, beat together the eggs, milk, and pinch of salt. Heat oil and butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. When hot, dip both sides of the bread in the egg/milk mixture and add to the hot pan. Fry bread until golden brown, then flip and brown the second side. Transfer French toast to plates and serve immediately with warm mushrooms.

When I was a little girl, I thought I'd really be a grown-up when I could eat soft-boiled eggs for breakfast, just like my dad. I was fascinated by the way he carefully tapped the top off with a knife, then sprinkled salt & pepper inside before scooping spoonfuls onto bites of seriously buttery toast (we are a buttery family). I only liked the whites of eggs at that stage of my life, so I was too apprehensive to tackle a whole egg for myself, but the elegance of it all definitely motivated me to learn to like the yolks, too.

And oh have I learned, ha! If you cut me open I'd bleed egg yolks at this point in my life. I kind of forgot about soft-boiled eggs for awhile, lured by the sexiness of poached (it feels very impressive when you first learn to poach an egg, even though it's the easiest thing in the world), but they are very much back in my rotation, especially during tomato season. It's hard to imagine a more humbly glorious breakfast than slices of perfectly ripe tomato, hot buttered toast, and a soft-boiled egg or two. The addition of smoked pork (ham or bacon) would be lovely but not necessary.

Recipe for Perfect Soft-Boiled Eggs at TC Taste/Minnesota Monthly Magazine.

My son asked me this morning, "Hey, what's that crumbly cinnamon stuff you put on top of muffins? Make that, like, all the time." Streusel! Yes! We are a family obsessed with streusel. When I was a little girl, I asked my mom if she could make a whole pan of just streusel, skipping the coffee cake part. (She said no.) When my sister was in the early days of a modeling career, her then-boyfriend baked a streusel coffee cake for her and was shocked to discover she'd eaten the entire thing while he was away at work. Two sticks of butter plus a cup of sour cream, strutting down the runway - nice!

If your family also swoons over cinnamon-brown sugar-butteriness, baking the coffee cake as individual muffins is one way to encourage sharing. We're big fans of the little Buddha coffee cakes at Lucia's, which gild the lily with a drizzle of icing, so I do the same. You could skip that step, though, and enjoy the muffins as is, preferably warm, with a cup of coffee, on a tray with a little bouquet of flowers, served to you in bed by a seriously cute kid (or two, or more).

Happy Mother's Day!

Recipe for Cinnamon Streusel Muffins at TC Taste/Minnesota Monthly Magazine.

Bacon, caramelized onions, double cheese, and eggs. This works on so many levels.

Recipe for Bacon & Onion Tart at Andrew Zimmern's Kitchen Adventures/Food & Wine Magazine.

Somehow on my trip to Provence this summer I completely missed socca, or chickpea flour pancakes. I'm a little bit obsessed with them at the moment, hot off the griddle, topped with nothing more than a grind of black pepper. That's how they're served in Provence, as a snack, wrapped in paper, meant to be washed down with ice-cold rosé.

OK!

But they make terrific breakfast/brunch food as well, served as a savory pancake topped with a fried egg and garlicky spinach. Last year I posted a recipe for just one pancake as the perfect base for a fast lunch of leftovers. I declare that a crispy, savory pancake can transform any ho hum leftovers into something sublime.

And then, if you're home late from a holiday party, craving a new twist on grilled cheese, do this: Smear two pancakes with harissa, press haloumi cheese into the middle, and griddle for a few minutes to warm through. Seriously the most perfect after-celebration food ever.

Recipe for Socca (Chickpea Flour Pancakes) with Fried Eggs & Spinach at Dara & Co./Minnesota Monthly Magazine.

I'm a bit ahead of the curve here, assuming that you have leftover roast of any sort in early September.  (Reveals my fatalistic if-summer's-over-then-it-must-be-winter attitude.)  But just in case...

I personally had a few lovely slices of leftover boneless, skin-on turkey breast, which I'd rubbed with herbs and olive oil and grilled until nicely crispy.  John and I hardly made a dent in it, but that's OK. We enjoyed hearty sandwiches and then...heavenly hash, God's gift to leftovers.  Yeah.

Too many people picture hash from a can, I think, and assume that they don't like it.  But really, what's not to like about aromatic vegetables slowly sauteed with a lovely bit of roast?  The whole emerges crusty and tender and pretty much to die for, especially topped with a poached egg (which I did not include in the pic, my apologies).  Hello Brunchy Autumn, aren't you a handsome fella?

I picked up parsnips today at Kingfield Farmers Market so in they went.  Fresh parsnips are sweet and rich-tasting, snag a few if you see them.  Roasted, mashed, tossed into stew (or hash!) the way you would potatoes.  Outstanding.

A Good Hash
Adapted from The Tenth Muse, My Life in Food by Judith Jones
Serves 2

2 Tbsp. butter
2 fat shallots or 1 small onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
½ large green or red bell pepper, chopped
2 or 3 small mushrooms (optional), chopped
2 medium russet potatoes, diced small (1/4 inch)
About 8 oz. cooked beef, lamb, pork, corned beef, or poultry, cut into small dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ c. lamb, beef, veal, or chicken stock (or even better, gravy)
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper

Optional: 2 poached eggs

Melt the butter in an 8-9-inch skillet and sauté the shallots, celery, bell pepper, and mushrooms (if using) until almost soft, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the potatoes and the meat, and season with salt and pepper to taste.  When everything is beginning to sizzle, pour in the stock (or gravy), and cook over low heat, partially covered, about 10 minutes.  Turn the hash over with a spatula, and cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes or so.  By now the liquid will have evaporated and a crust should be forming on the bottom.  When it is browned to your liking, turn the hash over again and brown the other side.  Serve topped with a poached egg (if using) and parsley.

Judith’s note: it is always important to include some aromatic vegetables, to lend moisture and just a touch of sweetness, which helps to encourage the glazing.  I sometimes include a little finely chopped carrot or parsnip or white turnip – whatever I may have on hand.  It came as a surprise to me to learn from Julia (Child) that a good hash needs some stock or even gravy, if you have it, not only to keep it from drying out but, as with the vegetables, to form the slightly crusty glaze.

My friend Susie & I headed back to the Minneapolis Farmer's Market this morning.  This time we chose a Saturday so we could breakfast on a bratwurst (relish, mustard, thank you) while scoping out the bounty.  We snagged pea pods, green beans, okra, cherry tomatoes, asparagus, dried black lentils, kale, and pork sausage.  Suz was hoping to buy duck eggs as well, but we got there too late.  Early bird gets the...eggs!

We of course (re)loaded up on strawberries.  Can't get enough of the sweet, syrupy beauties, utterly spectacular right now.  I picked up some more rhubarb too, thinking I'd try my hand at strawberry-rhubarb ice cream (later this weekend).  And this strawberry-rhubarb buttermilk pudding cake, which I've had on my mind since I saw the recipe a couple of weeks ago on one of my favorite blogs, Sassy Radish.  What's not to love about strawberries + rhubarb + CAKE?  Good Lord.  Yeah.

It's a simple little cake, just enough to fill out an 8-inch square pan (or a 9-inch round pan, which is what I used).  I love small cakes - enough to share with guests without leaving dangerous leftovers lying around the house.  This tender cake would be gorgeous for breakfast or brunch as well as dessert.  It's as soft, juicy, and delicious as it looks.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Buttermilk Pudding Cake
From www.sassyradish.com
Serves 6

Stephanie's note: I baked my cake in a 9-inch round pan.  Since the pan was dark, I lowered the oven temperature to 375F, which worked nicely.  I also needed an extra 2 Tbsp. of sugar with the rhubarb to achieve a pleasant sweet/tart, so taste the cooked fruit and adjust as necessary.

1/4 c. water
1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch
1/2 c. plus 1/3 c. sugar (perhaps a bit more)
2 c. chopped rhubarb (about 3-4 stalks)
1 c. chopped strawberries
1 c. all-purpose flour
1 3/4 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 large egg
1/2 c. buttermilk
1 stick butter, melted and cooled slightly
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat oven to 400F.  Butter an 8-inch square glass or ceramic baking dish, using the butter wrapper from your stick of butter if possible.

In a small saucepan, stir together water, cornstarch, and 1/2 c. sugar, then stir in rhubarb to coat evenly.  Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly.  Once simmering, stir occasionally and let cook for about 3 minutes.  Remove from heat and stir in strawberries.  Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and remaining 1/3 c. sugar.

In a large bowl, whisk together egg, buttermilk, melted butter, and vanilla.  Whisk in the flour mixture until just combined - do not overmix.

Add 1/2 c. of the fruit mixture to the baking dish, spreading it evenly over the bottom of the dish.  Pour batter over fruit, spreading it evenly.  Spoon the rest of the fruit evenly over the batter.

Bake for 25-30 minutes, until a wooden toothpick or a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake (not fruit) comes out clean.  Cool on a rack.

Serve the cake warm or at room temperature.

If the father in your life loves a good barbecue, then by all means grill away.  I'm right there with him.  But if you're looking for a new twist...how about brunch?

(That's my Daddy-O, with me the day I graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, and my no-longer-so-little sis Etta.)

My husband (painting above by Maud Bryt) loves brunch, with all the trimmings - eggs, meats, sweets, mimosas, all of it.  His perfect day would be to play basketball, come home to a fabulous brunch, then stretch out at the pool with a good book and some tunes.  Little dip, little nap, all good.  In fact, that's exactly what he'll be doing this coming Sunday.

Some Father's Day brunch ideas...

Eggs Baked with Scallions, Breadcrumbs & Cream with hot buttered toast
Rich, buttery Asparagus, Leek, & Gruyere Quiche
The killicious BLT I made below: BLT with Fried Egg & Avocado
Potato-Pepper Hash with Baked Eggs
Happy kids, Happy Dad with Buttermilk Pancakes, warm syrup, & a side of crispy bacon
Warm Cream Biscuits filled with fried sausages
Creamy Polenta alongside eggs & ham
Warm Scones with plenty of butter & jam

Add hot coffee or tea, mimosas or Bloody Mary's.

Here's a video of some of the pics I put together for my dad's birthday last year.  Makes a good Father's Day montage!  Happy Father's Day everyone!