Fresh Tart

I made this colorful dish for Christmas dinner and am just getting around to sharing it with you now. I'd like to say that I sat down and thought about everyone's favorite vegetables and what would be pretty with the rest of the meal but honestly...I got rushed, and behind, and realized awfully late that I'd said I would bring a vegetable dish out to my Aunt Mary's farm. I was grateful to find a kabocha squash, a head of red cabbage, and a spot of Parmesan cheese in the cooler.

Merry Christmas to me! Seriously.

When I bring a dish to someone else's home, my goal is for it to be at least partially prepared ahead of time to minimize freaking the hostess out with the need for a cutting board, pans, and precious space on a crowded cooktop. I also knew that our meal was going to be awfully rich - standing rib roast, creamy potatoes, all the goodness of a holiday meal. This gratin exists in the realm of a pan of sauteed vegetables, with just a bit of cheese to tie it all together.

If you haven't roasted a kabocha squash before, you're in for such a treat! The rind is quite soft - edible even, although I confess I have yet to eat it myself - and the flesh is flavorful, smooth, and just-sweet. I predict it will be your favorite new squash. The play of smooth, sweet squash with still-crunchy cabbage is lovely with a roast. Or atop polenta for a meatless dinner.

Recipe for Red Cabbage & Squash Gratin at Dara & Co./Minnesota Monthly Magazine.

My polentaaaah recipe at Dara & Co./Minnesota Monthly Magazine.

Seriously, it's been below-zero for a week.  Nothing new for Minnesota, just a particularly harsh reminder that holiday and birthday fun are officially over, welcome to real winter.  Forget the fluffy snow-twinkly light-wrapping presents-sledding winter.  No, this kind of cold is way beyond the warming reach of hot cocoa.  This is ugly, mean, dangerous cold, the kind that every year has me asking...WHY DO I LIVE HERE?  Sigh.  I'll stop now.

And make the best of it, as I always do, by whipping up something warm and comforting.  Peasant-style food works here, in today's case humble polenta.  Or spectacular polenta, as it were, with just a kiss of butter, a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and either a generous shower of grated Parmesan cheese or - my breakfast this morning - an over-easy egg.  The trick with polenta is to cook it for a long time and give it several good stirs, that's what makes it creamy-dreamy without a drop of cream (although go ahead and add cream if you wish, you certainly won't regret it).

Follow this recipe, tonight perhaps, and serve it alongside beef stew, or grilled lamb chops, or roasted vegetables, or even just sauteed mushrooms.  Sauteed greens are particularly delicious (think collards & grits and you get the picture...).  Make a big batch, eat the first round porridge-style, then eat the leftovers sliced and sauteed or grilled (since it becomes quite firm upon cooling).

On a slightly different note, here are two healthy, comfort-y recipes that could be nice for the weekend - green salad with warm potatoes, and frisee salad with an egg (perfect brunch food, add a glass of bubbly; they leave off the traditional bacon/lardons, but I submit that a very small amount of bacon packs a big flavor punch, so go for it if you think you'll miss it).

Later note, February 14, 2010: Mark Bittman/NYTimes has a similar rave, plus a video, check it out.

Here's a quick, perhaps lighter version of an all-time favorite, described (and photographed) deliciously in this New York Times article - polenta with eggs and greens.  The article outlines a naughty version with lots of butter and cheese (in my world known as polentaaaah), which would of course completely rock.  But my version is actually quite light and nutritious (for me, the richness of an egg yolk is plenty with this simple dish).

First, start the polenta.  Since no one else in the house likes it, 'round here I prepare a one-serving portion, roughly 3 Tbsp. polenta to 1 cup of water.  I'll be honest - when I'm doing a quickie meal like this, I don't bother to boil the water first and slowly stir in the polenta.  I put both water and grain in a pan, bring it to a boil, turn it down to a simmer, stir it several times as it cooks and thickens (about 15 minutes) and call it done (season with additional salt and pepper to taste).  No, it's not as fabulously creamy and decadent as the much longer-cooked version of polentaaah, but that's OK, it's still delicious, especially with what follows...

While the polenta cooks, mince a clove of garlic and roughly chop a handful or two greens - spinach or chard (kale would be delicious, but needs longer cooking).  After the polenta is done, spoon it into a flat (pasta) bowl and set it aside while you cook the greens and egg.  Start by sauteeing the minced garlic with a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes in a tablespoon or so of olive oil for a couple of minutes.  Toss greens into the pan.  Stir them around until nicely wilted, then push them off to the side of the pan.  Crack an egg into the pan.  Season and fry it to your liking (I prefer mine over-medium; you want some yolk to add the richness of a "sauce").  Spoon greens and egg on top of polenta, top with a grating of Parm if you like, and enjoy thoroughly.  One of the best breakfast/lunch/dinners I can imagine.  Delicious with a glass of medium-bodied (even spicy) red wine (or a cup of coffee - not even I drink red wine for breakfast...).

Man I love honey-crisp apples, still tasting mighty fine.  As much as I'm enjoying the frozen berries and cherries I mentioned yesterday, I still need something fresh to sink my teeth into, if for no other reason than to remind me that plants were once alive in Minnesota.  Sigh.  And honey-crisps are particularly Minnesotan, as the delicious variety (name says it all) was developed here by the University of Minnesota.  I really like the smaller version and grab them when I spot them, sometimes at Whole Foods, sometimes at Byerly's.  They're quite tasty sliced with a smear of almond butter, or grated into oatmeal or pancakes, or with a slice of sharp cheddar, or of course just out of hand.  Sasha is an apple-dipped-in-chocolate afficionado and who could disagree with that?  Chocolate!  Nathan likes them with peanut butter, or dipped in caramel sauce.  So good.

There are locally grown mushrooms at the market as well.  I'm a big, BIG mushroom lover and as such, like the cheese, I stand alone.  At least in my family.  But that's OK, I'm also the cook, so I saute a pan of mushrooms on the side (little olive oil and minced garlic, sprinkle of salt, finish with a squeeze of lemon) and add them to all the other things I make for dinner.  In fact, they're a delicious stand-in for meat, so if I make burgers, for instance, I'll make myself a small (2 oz.) burger and load it up with mushrooms.  My goodness, so delicious.  Ditto steak and chicken - a nicely sauteed chicken breast, topped with mushrooms and a bit of pan juices?  In my book, hard to beat.  I use them to fill out pasta dishes too, often sauteed with other vegetables - everyone else has a plate of spaghetti, I have a small portion of spaghetti filled out with lots and lots of vegetables.  The way it's supposed to be.  (My hope is that the kids will someday follow suit.  That whole "if you cook vegetables in flavorful ways, and offer them repeatedly to your children, they'll soon be eating them" thing has not worked for me...  You?)  And then there's my favorite dining-alone dinner - sauteed mushrooms with polentaaaaah. Hmmm, I could use one of those dinners, it's been awhile.

Since last week was way too crazy, I made Susie a birthday lunch today, one week late, but better than never. I love cooking for my girls - they'll eat anything so I can make all the things I love that others in the fam are too picky to eat. Like scallops. And polenta. Yep, polenta - with the weather taking a big turn for the cooler, comfort-y type foods are suddenly hitting the spot. And because fresh sweet corn is still tasty, I stirred in a cup or so right as the polenta finished cooking. Sweet and crisp, a nice addition.

Since polenta just begs for something a bit saucy, I served it up to Suz. Ha! Actually, I simmered CSA veggie share green beans and tossed them with a fresh tomato-garlic sauce (chopped fresh tomato, garlic, and olive oil sauteed/simmered together for a few minutes). Alongside scallops saltimbocca (I used Nueske's bacon instead of pancetta because, well, that's what I had; yes, I realize I'm beating the saltimbocca theme to death lately but what can I say? When it rocks, it rocks...), the polenta was in good company and we took our plates - and perhaps a glass of wine - out onto the deck for a nice summer-into-fall, girly-birthday luncheon. All good.

Until...I pulled a warm lemon souffle from the oven, and then it was all great. Sheesh. Topped with dollops of softly whipped cream, washed down with sips of strong, hot coffee...oh yeah. I don't know, I can't think of a chocolate dessert I love more than a warm fruit souffle. (Recipe for lemon souffle posted in comments, below.)

As Suz said, "Like I really want to go home and make dinner now," I'm thinking that John and I might end up wandering out later for sustenance. After checking out Vicky Cristina Barcelona, that is, which I've been looking forward to seeing.

Hope you're starting off your weekend in a nice way too! Happy Birthday Saucy Suz!

Later: three quick raves - one, for Vicky Cristina Barcelona, which is sexy/funny/fabulous, I recommend it completely. Two, for Restaurant Alma, where we went afterward for a lovely dinner - no shock there. Sweet corn flan and rigatoni with fennel sausage for me, yum. Three, a quick bop into the Cedar Cultural Center, to catch the end of the Punch Brothers' performance. I admit, I went grudgingly (John's taste in music does not er, match mine, that's what seven years' difference in age will do to a couple), but I was pretty blown away by... I'm not sure... Classical alternative bluegrass? The mandolin/lead singer's voice was angelic, kind of scary perfect. The technical talent of the violin, guitar, mandolin, banjo, and string bass players was incredible. So...a damn good day, all in all. Def a keeper. G'night!

Moderate it: I've said this before about savory souffles and the same holds true for the sweet versions - they're actually quite simple to make, and not overly rich/caloric, but they impress and are, not surprisingly, absolutely delicious. I declare, the world needs more souffles.

Wow this weekend flew by, here it is Sunday already. What happened? John was away skiing with the boys and I was going to enjoy a nice, quiet, productive weekend... Which I did, sort of, but then as usual I accidentally kinda filled the time too and before I knew it, the only quiet night I had was Thursday. And it was awesome! A long walk, followed by polenta for dinner (of course). But after snuggling in for an excellent-but-disturbing book (Jesus' Son) and movie (In the Valley of Elah), I had rather completely creeped myself out...

...so was quite glad to see that like the shoots of an early crocus, a spontaneous Friday-night gathering of the Baseball Moms had sprung joyfully from the grey snow into my inbox. Laughter to the rescue! McCoy's or bust! And of course I had a blast, cackling and screaming and talking smack, as well as eating pizza and drinking beer, with Beth, Bobbi, Jen, and Sonja. Thanks ladies!

Then last night, off to my parents' for another delicious dinner (Dad's pheasant roasted in cream, alongside rice, a quick salad with little goat cheese tartlets that I made, with Susanna's scrumptious buttery- cinnamony apple crisp to finish). Hanging with Nathan, Stacey, Dad, and Susanna most definitely set my spirits right again. I admit it, I'm overly-affected by dark stories and movies, but luckily I'm easily steadied by good company, good cheer, and good food. Omigosh, I sound like a hobbit! Well then, just call me Stephanie Baggins, ha. A mite tall for a halfling, but my appetite for comfort is in the right place!

Friday night, the deepfreeze has abated, I had polenta for dinner, and life is goooood. Although, I hardly needed dinner, given I was full all day from our raclette dinner at the Shubert's last night. Oh, John and I went wild, broiling cheese over ham and potatoes, eating the melty goodness alongside sauteed veggies, coarse mustard, and cornichon pickles. After stuffing ourselves like French pigs rooting acorns, we still found room for chocolate fondue, merrily dipping grapes, bananas, pound cake, and strawberries into melted hazelnut Toblerone chocolate. Oy. So delicious. So full. So happy. Thanks Shuberts!

Yet despite my fullness...I still found room for the polenta, which I ate simply alongside mushrooms sauteed with a little garlic and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. All on my own for din - therefore the polenta! - forget about it, beyond good. I guess my shopping trip to the Mall of America today did spark a bit of an appetite. Me, at The Mall? Those of you who know me well know that I really don't do malls. Especially MOA, Lord help me, I carefully avoid the place. Insta-headache. Insta-mallness. Ya know? But for Suz...I did it. And had a great time, of course - it was with Suz! And maaaybe I picked up a few little rewards for myself. (Woo hoo!)

And oh! I also received a case of extra-incredible olive oil, directly from Italy. I had ordered it from a woman named Ludovica, who my aunts and stepmom met on a recent stay in Umbria. This is seriousolive oil, lovingly made from the carefully picked fruit of hundred-year-old trees. Smooth, fruity-peppery taste (with quite an after-kick!), bright golden green color, fresh as fresh can be. I'll save it for bread and salads, when its delicious purity can be best savored. A delivery of Umbrian warmth, right to my wintry, grey doorstoop. Amazing. Grazie Ludovica!

So yep, Friday. Time to snuggle up in bed and watch a movie. Fall asleep early. Nothing exciting, which is damn fine by me. I'm over 40 you know. But it's all good.

I'll confess, there were some pretty big whoops around the TV last night when the New York Giants pulled off their upset Super Bowl victory. John's from NYC, so you know, a no-brainer for him... My stepdaughter and I were just a teensy bit swayed by the Tom Brady Cuteness factor, but I was glad for such an exciting game and to see John and Nathan so jazzed. Homemade pizza and a win, sheesh, the Super Bowl was actually fun this year, I can't remember the last time I thought that! (As in, never?)

Tonight, it's all quiet again; in fact I dined solo, so (naturally) took the opportunity to whip up a few of my favorite tasties - particularly those that no one else in the fam particularly enjoys...

I've been flipping through a gorgeous new cookbook, The Gift of Southern Cooking, by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock, so was inspired to whip up some grits (I often make grits/polenta when I'm cooking just for myself) to enjoy alongside a simple saute of okra, tomatoes, onion, and a bit of bacon (recipe posted in comments, below). Deeeelicious. Keep this dish in mind this summer, when there are both just-picked okra and perfectly ripe tomatoes at the farmer's market. Fresh sweet corn would be a delicious addition. Or perhaps that's gilding the lily - you decide. The dish is completely successful in the winter as well - just choose grape cherry tomatoes (sweet even in the winter), and unblemished, plump okra (skip if they're shriveled).

This Yankee lurves me some okra. And grits. And cracklins, biscuits, fried chicken, braised greens, pork in every iteration, black-eyed peas, sweet iced tea, and most likely crayfish, too, if I had access. Yeeeeehaw!

Oops, I Did it Again! Somehow I accidentally slow-roasted another pork shoulder, this time an Italian version (think fennel seeds, tons of garlic, oregano, and thyme). Same technique as carnitas, same silky, porky result. Rarrrr, LOVE it. Nice to have sitting in the fridge over the weekend, ready to eat as is, or toss with a bit of rigatoni, or enjoy alongside creamy polentaaaaah, or stuff into a warm, soft roll, with thinly sliced onions and pickles, for a killer sandwich. None of those options suck and I'm glad to have them all. Yeah.

I met Susie Silpada Sales for a last-minute Friday Morning Coffee with Suz today (both Kim and I were busy on Tuesday, so Tuesday Morning Coffee with Kim & Suz had to wait for next week, boo). So fun! So necessary! Nothing like the elixir of girly chat (and Almond Joy candy bars - Suz brought Almond Joy candy bars! My very, very favorite, yay!) to wrap up a craaaaz-ow week. What to tell first? About Nathan's new school? Driving through a hailstorm? Eating delicious, strange animal parts, barefoot, in front of a television crew? Cooper's vomiting all over Stacey's car? My parents' new home? My accidental flashing of the Metal sign at a religious event?

And then, what to listen to first? About Suz's impending move? Her kids' new schools? Her new Susie Sales job? Her new kickass fur vest and totally Metal boots? It was too much, there's just too much going on. Life is wild right now, in a good way, guess we'll just have to get together again (hee, hee) - like on Monday to celebrate The Maven's 40th! Yes, that nauseatingly young beyotch is about to join the ranks of us cougars. Hope she can handle it... I'm cooking and haven't quite decided yet what I'm making. Stay tuned...