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Fish Soup with Bread and RouilleAdapted from Gourmet CookbookServes 61 large leek, washed carefully, green part coarsely chopped; white part cut into 1/4-inch pieces and set aside3 Tbsp. olive oil1 medium onion, coarsely chopped2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped2 carrots, coarsely chopped3 garlic cloves, smashed¼ tsp. crumbled saffron threads2 bay leaves1 tsp. red pepper flakes1 lb. can diced or crushed tomatoes2 c. dry white wine6 c. clam juice1-1 lb. unsliced loaf sour dough bread2 Tbsp. olive oil2 Tbsp. butter1 lb. skinned white fish fillets, such as halibut, snapper, and/or bass, cut into 1-inch cubes1 tsp. saltRouille (recipe follows)Garnish: 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano; 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsleyMake the broth:Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add leek greens, onion, celery, and carrots and cook, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add saffron, bay leaves, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes. Add wine and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by about half, about 30 minutes. Stir in clam juice and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes.Meanwhile, prepare the croutes:Put a rack in the middle of oven and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat a well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderately high heat until hot (or, preheat an outdoor grill). Cut bread into three equal pieces and brush each piece all over with 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Grill, turning, until grill marks appear on all sides. Tear bread into rough 2-inch pieces and spread on a baking sheet. Bake until crisp outside but still soft inside, about 10 minutes. Cool croutes.Finish the soup:Pour broth through a colander into a large bowl; discard solids. Heat butter in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until foam subsides. Add white part of leek and cook, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add fish, hot broth, and salt and bring to a simmer (fish will be cooked through at this point). Remove from heat and stir in ½ c. rouille. Put croutes in six soup plates and ladle soup over. Sprinkle with oregano and parsley and serve remaining rouille on the side.

RouilleMakes about 2 cupsRouille (the French word for “rust,” pronounced “rooee”) is a spicy-hot sauce made from garlic, chiles, fresh bread crumbs, and olive oil. Testament to the magic of garlic, it is used as a condiment for bouillabaisse and other fish stews and soups. The bread crumbs thicken the sauce. 2 red bell peppers4 garlic cloves, peeled1 tsp. salt1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped¾ c. fine fresh white bread crumbs, preferably brioche or challah2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice½ tsp. freshly ground black pepperLay bell peppers on grates of two gas burners and turn flames on high. Roast, turning with tongs, until skins are blackened, 8 to 12 minutes. (Or broil on rack of a broiler pan about 2 inches from heat, turning, until skins are blackened, 8 to 12 minutes.) Transfer peppers to a bowl, cover, and let steam for 20 minutes. Pull stems and seeds out of peppers and discard. Tear open and lay the pepper flat on a cutting board, and scrape off the blackened skin. In the bowl of a food processor, puree the garlic and jalapeno. Add the bell peppers and bread crumbs and puree again. With motor running, slowly add oil, then lemon juice and pepper, blending until very smooth (rouille will look like an orange-pink mayonnaise). Rouille can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated, covered. Bring to room temperature before using. Also makes a delicious dip for crackers and vegetables.

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